Riding Mae Hong Son Loop in Northern Thailand!
I’m excited to announce that starting tomorrow I will be embarking on the Mae Hong Son Loop — a 600km motorbike ride along Route 108 from Chiang Mai-Pai-Mae Hong Son-Mae Sariang-Chiang Mai (or the opposite direction) in Northern Thailand. This epic adventure takes a minimum of 4 days if you follow the loop without making any detours to visit the many beautiful attractions along the way. I will be updating this blog post during my journey with photos of waterfalls, temples, hiking trails, panoramic view points, hot springs, and whatever else captures my attention. You can read more about the Mae Hong Son Loop on Cat Motors website here. This is the full loop with noteworthy stop-points.
The Mae Hong Son Loop Route — courtesy of Cat Motors
I decided to rent my motorbike for a full 7 days from Vanessa’s Motorbike Hire located about 6km outside the Chiang Mai city center. You can hop on a taxi-truck or hail a Grab to get there safely. I chose this one because they’re the only motorbike rental company to accept credit card. You can either leave your passport and make a copy or pay 1,000 Baht and keep your passport. I chose the latter option since I’m still a broke backpacker and strapped for cash at the moment.
Here’s a few of the popular options for scooter rentals in Chiang Mai.
Bamboo Bike Rentals (over 400 reviews on Google)
Mango Bikes Rental (tons of happy customers on Google)
Chiang Mai Scooter Rental (affordable prices and great reviews)
Cat Motors (wrote the book on Mae Hong Son Loop)
Vanessa’s Motorbike Rental (accepts credit card)
I’m fully equipped with the brand-new 2019 Honda PCX 150cc featuring keyless engine start! Most companies will advise you to rent a capable scooter with enough engine power for this trip since there’s a whopping 2,000 small and large turns on the road (over 800 on the way to the small hippie town of Pai). I rented my scooter for 2,500 Baht (insurance included) for a full week, which should be plenty of time to finish the loop and spend a few days hiking and relaxing at hot springs in beautiful Pai.
** The original version of this blog post was written on March 4th, 2020. Please stay tuned for updates with photos over the next week!
I’m updating this blog post on March 9th at Touch Star Resort located below Doi Inthanon National Park which makes the highest point in Thailand. I decided to stay here for the night since I’m exhausted after another action-packed day of riding my motorbike along the Mae Hong Son Loop. I’ve been driving for 4 days (roughly 8 hours per day) and put an impressive 800km on the odometer! This has been the most incredible motorbike travel adventure of my life; full of adrenaline and non-stop curves through mountainous terrain, national parks, and even the arid desert (there’s literally a town named Hot) at the base of the mountain. I’ve visited temples, waterfalls, hot springs, the second-largest cave in Thailand, and met some adventurous people along the way! So, without further ado, let’s get into my favorite destinations on the Mae Hong Son Loop in Northern Thailand!
#1 — Three-Headed Buddha Statue
When you make the first turn towards Pai off the main highway, you will most likely notice a giant white-golden Buddha statue in the distance. I forget the exact name in Thai, so I’ll simply refer to this holy site as Three-Headed Buddha until I can find the proper name. This statue is towering at 4-stories tall and appears to constructed entirely of marble. I’m always mesmerized at the intricate detail of the myriad Buddha temples (there’s over 30,000 in all of Thailand) chiseled from stone and polished to a fine smooth finish. I pulled up on my motorbike and attempted to enter a Buddhist classroom still in progress. A security guard of sorts directed me in the right direction. I walked along the narrow corridor and peered into the classrooms to get a better look at the monks studying religious teachings. I find myself fascinated by the humble peaceful nature of Buddhist monks, and enjoy talking to them in short choppy English; even if it’s just to ask for a quick photo. This is probably one of the more awe-inspiring temples I’ve seen during my travels in Thailand for the past month-and-a-half. For more on that topic, you can read my previous blog post about the Top 5 Buddhist Temples in Chiang Rai. Here’s a beautiful albeit slightly-askew photograph of the massive Three-Headed Buddha Statue. Pardon me for not editing any of the photos this go around.
Three-Headed Buddha Statue on the road to Pai, Thailand - Mae Hong Son Loop Route 108
#2 — Mok Fa Waterfall
Honestly, I didn’t get a chance to visit Mok Fa Waterfall. Why? Because I didn’t want to pay the entrance fee of 120 Baht and I’ve already seen hundreds of waterfalls in my life so far. In most cases, I would rather save the spare cash for a tasty meal or spicy chicken basil or Pad Thai. Keep in mind I’m still a broke backpacker and starving artist, and every little bit counts in large amounts. However, I definitely want to include this small waterfall in the roundup list since it’s always refreshing to cool off after driving in the beating sun for hours. But if you’re looking for a gorgeous multi-tiered waterfall along the loop, you’ll want to keep reading…
Note: Remember to lather up with sunscreen if you want to stay protected from the harsh elements. Don’t be like me and leave it off unless you want to get your tan on and have a death-wish for skin cancer later in life.
Mok Fa Waterfall on the Mae Hong Son Loop outside Pai, Thailand — Photo Courtesy of Cat Motors
#3 — Pa Pae Meditation Retreat Center
Let me explain. I’m not recommending you go to a tedious week-long Vipassana Silent Meditation Retreat. Ain’t nobody got time for that; unless you do, in which case by all means. This is merely a landmark on a slight detour from the main loop that is well worth taking. It takes you through small villages along dirt roads up into the mountains with sweeping views of the farm terraces, rice paddies, wooden cabins, with a few temples dotted in for good measure. You may get the feeling to turn around to carry on the deliciously curvy Mae Hong Son Loop, but stay diligent and you will receive priceless memories! Maybe give your horn a few friendly beeps and wave at the locals along the way; realizing that you are capable of inspiring people to get out of their comfort zones, rise above their poor circumstances, and dream big!
#4 — Huai Nam Dang National Park
In all honesty, I didn’t visit this national park due to the 200 Baht entrance fee for foreigners and my eagerness to continue the beautiful drive to Pai. I asked the lady at the entrance gate if I could go in for 20 minutes to take a few photos and come right back, but of course she didn’t speak English. Huai Nam Dang National Park is one of Thailand’s favorite tourist attractions. The Kio Lom scenic area is the most popular place during December-February, when tourists love to stay overnight to witness the impressive sunrise and sea of mist cover the surrounding mountainside. If you’ve got a full day available for hiking into the mountains, this national park is definitely worth checking out!
My Honda PCX motorbike looking sexy in front of the Huai Nam Dang National Park entrance sign.
#5 — Pai Memorial Bridge
This is another important monument to visit on your way to Pai. The Pai Memorial Bridge is located about 9 km from Pai along the Mae Hong Son Loop. During World War II, the Japanese army wanted to have a route from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son to attack Burma (better known as Myanmar) which was a colony of the United Kingdom at that time. To establish the route, the bridge was built over Tha-Pai River in 1941 using elephants to drag trees from the jungle and forcing villagers to work. After the war, Japanese soldiers left and burnt down the bridge. However, the villagers were in trouble because the bridge was very important for their daily life, and rebuilt the wooden bridge over the Pai river. It’s a popular spot for tourists to take selfies with the beautiful countryside backdrop. However, due to the Coronavirus scare and burning season this time of year, I was the only person walking across the wooden bridge.
The smoky season in Northern Thailand and the surrounding parts of Southeast Asia generally occurs during the months of February, March, and April. The exact timing and severity of the haze is different every year because it is dependent on human activity and the weather.
The smoky season consistently reaches it’s peak in the second half of March, and the air is usually much improved after the mid-April Songkran holiday. But there have been years where the hazy air has lingered on well into May.
Source: https://iglu.net/survivor-guide-chiang-mai-smoky-season/
Tha Pai World War II Memorial Bridge is open to tourists all days and all times and there’s no entry fee.
#6 — Pai Canyon
The Pai Canyon is an incredible place to explore! It is a 5 minute walk to the top of the canyon from the parking lot and from there you can venture off to many different tracks! This is a very popular spot to watch the sunset and it gets pretty busy with tourists. I decided to make a stop on the way to Pai in late afternoon and pretty much had the whole place to myself. I highly recommend wearing proper footwear during the hike. I was wearing my only pair of sandals and almost fell and broke my ass on a few separate occasions. Some of the ledges are very narrow with 30m drops and no safety patrol, so you’ll want to be extra careful with your foot placements. I spotted a couple across the chasm sliding down the steep sandy cliff and decided it was nearly impossible without injuring myself in sandals with no tread left. I definitely need to invest in a solid pair of hiking boots before my adventures in Vietnam. Also, remember to bring water since it gets very hot and humid. Stay hydrated, friends!
A couple walking along the narrow sandy ledge at Pai Canyon.
#7 — Pai Bamboo Bridge
#8 — Big White Buddha Statue
#9 — Siam Books in Pai
#10 — Santichon Old Chinese Village
#11 — Wat Nam Hu
#12 — Pha Sua Waterfall
#13 — Wat Jong Klang Temple
#14 — Tham Lod Cave
#15 — Phra Buddha Mancala Metta Dhum
#16 — Mae Surin Waterfall
#17 — Pha Bong Hot Springs
#18 — Wat Phra That Si Chom Thong
#19 — Mae Ya Waterfall
#20 — Great Holy Relics Pagodas
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Here’s a few photos of my daily driver for the next week taken outside Hug Rooftop Hostel — my favorite fun hostel in Chiang Mai, Thailand. I also highly recommend D-Well Hostel if you prefer to stay in the historic Old City Square of Chiang Mai. It’s affordable, clean, comfortable, with a great location, and includes free breakfast.
Highly recommend watching this inspiring vlog and subscribe to Kraig Adams on Youtube for travel inspiration on the Mae Hong Son Loop!
Travel insurance is so important as it will help you with emergencies and unexpected costs on your trip. If anything happens and I’m in a serious motorbike accident (heaven forbid), I’m grateful to be fully covered with Insured Nomads! I’m also a brand ambassador for the company offering travel/medical insurance with zero deductibles for digital nomads, world adventurers, and expats. You can sign up using my unique referral link here. Life gets really boring if you’re not willing to calculated risks in pursuit of your passion! I feel a great sense of freedom and control anytime I’m riding a motorbike with the open road laid out straight ahead of me… like anything is possible!
